The Delights Of Thailand

Thailand has been making headlines this month as violent protests in Bangkok threaten to lead to further political uncertainty for the country. Despite this chaos, however, thousands of visitors are still pouring into this increasingly unstable Southeast Asian destination. But why is it so popular?

Thailand is so often synonymous with beaches and wild parties, that its paradoxical mix of citylife, dense jungles, and cultural North are often overlooked. However, both warm in its people and weather, Thailand’s charm goes much deeper than the buckets of SangSom whisky sold in the bars, and even in a country often considered as tourist-territory, there’s still a chance to get off the beaten track.

Keen to find out why so many people are drawn to Thailand, I asked Ewan Clarke, the Leeds branch manager for STA Travel, a popular student travel company, why he thought so many students are choosing to visit Thailand.

“The cheapness, and also the welcome – the people are very friendly,” says Ewan. “The weather is a bonus if you’re coming from the UK! Also the beautiful beaches and islands down South, which is the main draw for a lot of people.”

But in a country infamous for sex tourism and drug-fuelled beach raves, can you escape the tourists and experience some real Thai culture? Or is Thailand inevitably becoming Westernised, losing its own unique identity?

Nick Towers, a law graduate who now lives and works in Northern Thailand says: “I don’t think tourists have ruined Thailand. They may have taken over a few roads in Bangkok, sleeper trains and some beaches down south, but it would be colonial arrogance to say we had the ability to ruin the country. If you asked the tens of millions of Thais who do not live in tourist-heavy areas, they’d probably laugh at the suggestion that their country had been ruined by tourists.”

But certainly years of heavy tourism have done some damage to Thailand. Islands such as Koh Phi Phi, where The Beach was filmed, are increasingly becoming filled with hotels and guesthouses. Koh Phangan, which was once famed for its simple island lifestyle, and traditional, basic accommodation, has now turned into a regular package holiday destination, with thousands of people arriving at the island for the Full-Moon Party each month.

Nick agrees that some tourism has had an adverse effect on Thailand. He says: “what has been ruined by tourists is the general Thai perception of foreigners, who due to the behaviour of many tourists, are stereotyped as unclean, alcoholic and ignorant ATMs.”

Ewan, of STA Travel, comments on the flipside of this Westernisation. He says: “It is a good place for first time travellers as people do speak English and there’s a whole traveller’s infrastructure.”

Thailand seems split between the culture of the North, and the beaches of the South, but what are most people looking for when they visit Thailand?

“The majority of tourists would initially come to us thinking they were going to the South,” Ewan explains, “but if anyone has more than ten days, we encourage people to do both. The North is very different to the South. You need to do both to get a balanced impression of Thailand.”

Despite this culture/beach split, there are still opportunities to find the seemingly elusive rural island paradises in Thailand.

“There are lots of islands in Thailand.” Says Ewan, “There’s all the popular ones like Koh Tao, Koh Samui, and Koh Phangnan, but then there’s islands like Koh Chang which is nearer Cambodia, and is still very undeveloped. Also on the West Coast of Thailand towards Malaysia, there’s an awful lot of unexplored islands. In a place like Thailand you have to try a little harder to get off the beaten track, but it is still possible. The area is your oyster.”

Thailand’s reputation tends to precede it: seasoned travellers are usually reluctant to visit, whereas inexperienced travellers often only visit the islands. As one of the only Southeast Asian countries to have avoided colonisation, Thailand has a rich cultural history that seems to get overlooked. This diverse country has an exciting mixture of things to offer, from cooking courses, to dive training, to Buddhist retreats. It boasts breathtaking scenery, including dense jungle, rice plains, white beaches, and mountainous terrain. Its proximity to other countries, such as Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos make it an unparalleled traveller’s Mecca. Even Bangkok, with its vibrant mix of street-vendors, market-stalls, and high-rise hotels paradoxically contrasted with slums and red-light districts, makes for an interesting slice of Asian culture. And the tangy, flavoursome street food that can be bought for less than 50p is something that everyone should have the opportunity to try.

Forget any preconceptions of Westernisation, prostitution, and binge drinking, and find out how worthwhile it can be to hunt out the lesser-known spots in Thailand. An up-to-date guidebook and sense of adventure will help you go a long way, and actively searching out your own personal experience in a country like Thailand can be a lot more exciting than just following the route most-travelled in a less-touristy country.

“It’s a huge country. There will always be new places to explore,” says Ewan.

STA travel offer return flights to Bangkok from £375, as well as organised trips and projects throughout Thailand. Visit their website to find out more: www.statravel.co.uk

Natalie Lyall-Grant